Gourmet's Delight

pemstrongAt this hidden gem of a French restaurant in the heart of South Delhi, a Goan chef is working wonders./strong/em/p pemandnbsp;/em/p pIt isnandrsquo;t very often that a restaurant or a chef does something that can be said to be revolutionary. Sure, there are those who make amazing food and add to a cityandrsquo;s growing culinary scene. But what chef Rahul Gomes Pereiraandrsquo;s recently unveiled menu at andAgrave; Ta Maisonandmdash;Sunder Nagarandrsquo;s hidden gem; a membership-based French dining opened in 2014 by Rakshay Dhariwal of PCO fameandmdash;has done is more than that. He has simply upped the game./p pandnbsp;/p p style="text-align: center;"/p p style="text-align: center;"emChef Rahul Gomes Pereira/em/p pWhen Chef Rahul (Picu to those in the know) sent out a creamy, fresh burrata with Maraschino cherries and plucked basil instead of the traditional tomatoes and pesto, it made me think. Why would you take perfection and destroy it? The answer lies in the idea of evolution: every level of evolution is perfect until you reach the next stage. Chef Rahul replaced the juiciness of the tomato with the sweetness of a pickled cherry, subtly injecting a wintery hint into a summertime starter./p pandnbsp;/p pFor those not in the know, andAgrave; Ta Maison, or ATM as it is known, opened with the simple manifesto of bringing French-inspired cuisine and signature cocktails to a discerning (and select; membership is not for everyone) list of patrons. It is a place where the powerful and influential hobnob over fine cigars and Old Fashioneds. It would be rude to name names, and anyway, Eeshaan Kashyap, who runs the establishment, would never allow it. andldquo;We endeavour to make the simple special,andrdquo; he says./p pandnbsp;/p p style="text-align: center;"/p p style="text-align: center;"andnbsp;/p pWith the hiring of Chef Rahul, formerly of The Oberoi properties in Delhi, Mumbai, and Bangalore, ATM has done just that. Take, for example, the carpaccio. Served in a shallow basin, a single, paper-thin slice of beaten-into-submission red meat comes floating in a puddle of extra virgin olive oil, with nothing but a little rucola and a single shave of parmigiano reggiano for garnish. That, and a dash of cracked sea salt. In your mouth, the entire packageandmdash;I folded the entire thing into a decadent paanandmdash;literally melts. You could have a medley of these with bread to scrape up the oil later as comfort food. The same goes for the duck confit thatandrsquo;s served with millet risotto and a red-wine jus that takes a mere 48 hours to slow-reduce over a low flame. andldquo;Itandrsquo;s liquid gold,andrdquo; said Chef Rahul./p pandnbsp;/p pBut heandrsquo;s not content to redefine iconic dishes, and often adds his native Goan touches to his food at ATM. A delicious example would be the mini crepe roll with Goan chorizo that is made to his specifications in Goa and flown to Delhi every week. Move over tandoori chicken tikka, the porkandrsquo;s smoky spiciness goes even better with a single malt than the longstanding Punjabi favourite. But then, what are favourites if not things that are easier to like than others? It takes a Chef Rahul to challenge that./p pandnbsp;/p pemTo taste Chef Rahulandrsquo;s food, apply for membership at: a rel="nofollow" href="http://atamaison.com/membership.php" target="_blank"A Ta Maison/a/em/p pemOpening hours: 11.00 AM to 1.00 AM/em/p pandnbsp;/p pstrongMore On andgt;andgt; a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.luxpresso.com/lifestyle/food-drink" target="_blank"Food andamp; Drink/a/strong/p

from Luxpresso http://www.luxpresso.com/news-lifestyle/food-review-a-ta-maison-delhis-new-menu/17012391
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