Friday 15 January 2016

Dior makes iconic comparison to tout stiletto’s silhouette-enhancing properties

Martin Perlaki for Dioressence

Martin Perlaki for Dioressence

French couture house Christian Dior is positioning its latest footwear design as a new classic through digital content that blends heritage with modernity.

Inspired by the shape of a Dior pump released in 1959, the Dioressence stiletto also reflects more recent inspirations of the label, a blend of old and new that is explored through film, illustration and photography on Dior’s social channels and its content site DiorMag. As the single-sole stiletto is a classic produced by many labels, Dior’s use of content helps to separate its own product from that of other brands.

“Today’s leading luxury brands are mavericks at reconstructing new collections that blend modern taste with a nod to their iconic heritage,” said Paul Farkas, co-founder/CEO of Accessory 2, New York. “Conceptualized in the late ’40s and highlighted in the March 1959 issue of Vogue as the first heel with a convex form, the House of Dior is now rolling out a well-timed line of pumps with an array of dynamic style options for today’s women looking to show off more arch and leg.”

Mr. Farkas is not affiliated with Dior, but agreed to comment as an industry expert.

Dior was unable to comment directly.

Old meets new
Dior’s pump first debuted in a short film that mixes archived footage with clips of today’s stiletto. The film opens with a woman entering and sitting in a vintage chair, placing the current collection heel that she models in a timeless setting.

In a black-and-white tape, a woman inspects and then tries on a shoe in a salon, as her modern counterpart is shown also handling and slipping on the Dioressence. Both women then walk around their respective rooms and admire the silhouette their shoes create.


Dioressence Heels

In a post on DiorMag, the brand explains that a heel naturally gives a woman a sensual quality, in addition to flattering her figure by lengthening her legs. Dior likens this to the effect of its New Look, which debuted in 1947.

Back then, heels were mostly made of wood, but Dior replaced the wood with a metal stem, allowing it to make a narrower, sturdier pump. This got it noticed by Vogue, which featured it Dior’s shoe as the first with a convex heel in a 1959 issue.

A subsequent post tells consumers to, “Get ready to discover a shoe like no other.” Here, it lists some of the design details, including a highly pointed toe and a low-cut top.

Marton-Perlaki-pour-Dior-01
Martin Perlaki for Dioressence

Making ties to the label’s eponymous founder, the Dioressence pumps are available in black, which he thought of as the most elegant color, and a pale pink, considered by him to be “the color of happiness and femininity.” The lamb, patent or iridescent calf leather stilettos also come in hues including military green, ochre, red and bronze.

Painting the whole picture, Dior also takes consumers behind-the-scenes of the making of the Dioressence, from its origins as a pen sketch in the brand’s design workshop to its completion in Italy. A shoemaker creates a wooden form, cuts material from a pattern and assembles the shoe by hand, eventually placing it gingerly into a shoebox.


Dioressence Heels – Know-how

Providing another perspective on the release are illustrations from artist Ignasi Monreal. One depicts a lone Dioressence pump from the perspective of its heel, with the front of the shoe revealed as a spinning mirror catches its reflection.

Another equates the Dioressence with the New Look, as two iconic silhouettes sit perched above Paris.

Ignasi Monreal Dioressence
Ignasi Monreal for Dioressence

A number of the Dioressence styles can be purchased online in select European markets, including France, Germany, Spain, Italy and the United Kingdom.

Dioressence pump on Dior Britain
Screenshot of Dior’s ecommerce site for the United Kingdom

“The cross-platform content on Dior Mag, social and ecommerce is appealing and sophisticated, especially the illustrations by artist Ignasi Monreal, depicting parallels between the past and present styles and looks into the making of the shoe,” Mr. Farkas said. “Old souls and digital natives alike will shop for and add the modern-traditional soles online for their closets, some for classic Dior black and pink and others for camo.”

New look
Dior recently eased into ecommerce through a partnership with New York-based department store Bergdorf Goodman.

While Dior’s merchandise, with the exception of its footwear, can be purchase via ecommerce through third party retailers, the house does not operate its own direct online channels in the United States for items other than entry-level goods. The partnership with Bergdorf Goodman, which lasted until Dec. 31, filled the online void for Dior footwear (see story).

Dior is currently in a period of transformation, which may usher in more changes for the house.

Designer Raf Simons is ending his three-and-a-half year tenure as artistic director of women’s wear at Dior.

The spring/summer 2016 runway show was his last for the house. No replacement has been announced at this time, and as this is the latest in a series of moves at iconic luxury houses, this has the potential to shift creatives to new positions as brands seek new talent (see story).

Dior frequently points back to its past to help frame its present and future, giving the brand a consistency even in the face of change.

“Opening the archives is the ultimate behind-the-scenes, highlighting its core and gracefully showing evolution,” Mr. Farkas said. “Shoppers and patrons are treated to this insider’s view of brand talent and DNA driving sales, evangelism and loyalty.”



from Luxury Daily » Apparel and accessories http://www.luxurydaily.com/dior-makes-iconic-comparison-to-tout-stilettos-silhouette-enhancing-properties/
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