Has Berluti found its new creative director?

Berluti fall/winter 2016 show; image courtesy of Alessandro Sartori

French footwear and apparel label Berluti, which has been without a creative director since February, is reportedly considering designer Haider Ackermann to fill the role.

Earlier this year, Alessandro Sartori exited the LVMH-owned brand to return to Ermenegildo Zegna as its creative director, adding Berluti’s name to a growing list of houses with vacant top design positions. According to Reuters, Berluti is in discussions with Mr. Ackermann, who would bring a more contemporary sensibility to the house if hired.

Sartorial speculation
Mr. Ackermann attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and worked for a handful of designers including John Galiano before founding his eponymous label in 2001. His designs have gotten him noticed by other top creatives, with Dior looking at him as a potential candidate to replace Mr. Galiano and Karl Lagerfeld mentioning him as his ideal successor at Chanel.

Look from Haider Ackermann’s fall/winter 2016 menswear show

If appointed, Mr. Ackermann would take the place of Mr. Sartori, who left his position along with Stefano Pilati and Brendan Mullane, at the time creative directors of Zegna and Brioni.

During Mr. Sartori’s time at LVMH-owned Berluti, the brand’s business grew from $33 million in 2011 to $111 million, per Business of Fashion (see story).

Within the past couple of years, Berluti has made a lifestyle push, growing its brand beyond its bespoke footwear into head-to-toe dressing. This included opening new stores and upgrading its Web site as LVMH put more funding into the company.

Berluti’s maison on Madison Avenue in New York

A few years ago, LVMH’s Bernard Arnault had said he expected Berluti to turn a profit by 2016, but statements around the group’s first half results this year pointed to lessened losses at the house while not locking down a timeline for profitability.

Neither LVMH nor Mr. Ackermann has confirmed the rumors of a match.

from Apparel and accessories – Luxury Daily https://www.luxurydaily.com/has-berluti-found-its-new-creative-director/
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